Danish trains - Fish and Chips - Fjordy

 I was sure we had a complicated journey back to Hirtshals from Flensburg, but when I looked at our train tickets again it seems that the journey got changed somehow and was now much simpler. However this happened we are all grateful. Only three trains! 

The first leg to Kolding we split as there were not enough bike spaces on the later train. H, Y and I got the early train and had some time in Kolding for a second breakfast. We met other bike travellers who were all friendly and we all helped each other on and off the train. Danish Inter city trains are not easy to get bikes on and off as there are many steps to get up. Once on board however there is good space and excellent bike securing straps. 

We made it with easy connections to Hirtshals, where the sun was out and finally it felt like summer again. We had time for an early supper in a very nice sea side cafe /restaurant- the best fish and chips this side of Ullapool! S and I had a walk down to the beach and we watched our boat come in, while holidaymakers sunned themselves. The small group learning surfing reminded me of our wonderful holiday in Cornwall! 

We rode down to the ferry check in, about 15 minutes before ‘last check in’ and rode straight into the boat - perfect timing. A beer on deck for S and I (boys watching TV…) and then to bed. 

Now we have a short ride home and lots of washing to do! 

And back to Flensburg

 Today we closed the circle and got ourselves back to Flensburg. This was done on four train with connections usually around or just under the ten minute mark - and generally rather wet from the 12km ride to the first station under proper solid rain. Anyhow - we all made it and had a relaxed afternoon wandering around the town here. 

Proper wet - for the first time Sonja and I’s almost slick tires were found wanting on a few occasions today - the boys were fine! 

We used regional trains as you don’t need to book bikes - here we squeezed eight bikes on board! There were 9 for a few stations. All low stress. On an earlier train a youth with a e-scooter refused to make space for us, but the train manager came by and told him in no uncertain terms to move his scooter and himself to get us all in! I was quite impressed with his pro-active actions. Generally all worked well, but we had to use lifts or stairs as well to get between trains and that was a bit tight time wise as we were usually not the only people who needed them. All worked well in the end. 

One of the pretty side streets in Flensburg - formerly the red light district - those businesses have now moved on and it’s only red flowers and lovely historical buildings. We met a local who had planted a lot of the hollyhocks and they seemed to be growing out of every crack in the cobbles.

 

The historic harbour has many lovely old boats in it, and this was one of the better kept. There seems to be some active boat building / repair work going on there. 

Tomorrow it’s trains through Denmark - we at least know that worked last time - even if getting the bikes on is a bit of a pain - there will be enough place as we have booked places for each bike. 

Bothmar house - a train - a missing key and more rain

After breakfast and a short debate whether to head the short distance to the next door village of Klüz or further afield to Schwerin, we opted for the short tour. Here is an amazing ‘English Manor House’ complete with park gardens right in the middle of deepest darkest Meklenburg Vorpommern! We got there just in time for a go on the historical skittle alley. After a wander around the garden we met one of the staff who said there was a treasure hunt around the grounds for kids - so the boys did that while Sonja and I looked through the house. The story is amazing - with the man behind building it Bothmer - an advisor to the first Hanoverian kings of England, George the 1st and 2nd. He made a fortune - but couldn’t buy land in the UK. So late in life he bought up a huge amount of land here in Meklenburg-Vorpommern and had the house built. He never saw it, as he died in London, but it seems that setting up an inheritance for his heirs. This he managed in style - as well as being an ancestor to a surprising number of current European monarchs. The house was an old people’s home after the war, and has now been somewhat restored, in a simple way - but nicely done. 

The other curio in the Schloss is an important piece of natural history - the first ‘arrow stork’ or Pfeilstorch. Before people understood animal migration no one knew where summer birds went in winter - there were many outlandish theories. This poor stork bought with it evidence of its voyages. While in Africa someone had tried to kill it with an arrow or small spear. This had gone through its neck, but not damaged anything ‘important’ so it continued life with this new adornment. It came back here in the summer and was observed to be different to the other storks. I don’t know if it died or was killed, but someone interested enough realised they had something worth investigating. The arrow was identified as being of African origin and the first pieces of evidence for long bird migrations began to fall into place. 

The plan after that was to go the the narrow gauge railway for a train ride through the country. It was at this point that the day ‘derailed’ somewhat as Hannes realised he had lost his bike key. He could find the key-ring, but not the key, and the spares carefully kept in a box at home. E&Y and I went for the train ride anyway while S and H searched for the key. All to no avail. The rest of us joined the hunt. After many hours we looked for a plan B - and struck gold with the local bike shop / frame builder who had a proper bike cave. He cut the lock of for the princely sum of 10 euros. 

We then rode home, found that the local eatery was really  canteen for the holiday village and so opted to ride out once more to find somewhere nicer in Boltenhagen. This we did and after a nice ride home in the dark collapsed into bed! 

Sea buckthorn in all verities for sale in the local farm shop. It was an important source of vitamins during the Communist times, and is still grown. 

Lights on for the ride home!

Wismar again

 Today we got the bus into Wismar and went on a boat tour of the harbour, in better weather than forecast. We were slightly kicking ourselves at ‘chickening out’ because of the forecast. By mid afternoon though we saw it has been the right call. After another wander through town, a cake and a walk we went to the pool / water fun place. Here we had a swim, Sonja and I read a bit while the boys spent a long time on the slides. Apparently water without jellyfish is a distinct plus…

A day in Wismar

 The day started dry - and we had a good breakfast to start the day. We tried to call the B&B to confirm we would come, but got no answer. Once underway I rode back to the B&B to talk to them while the rest of the gang ocontinued on towards Wismar. Perfect riding and not a sign of the threatened change in the weather. The boys are even complaining that it’s too hot! 

Again the cycle paths are busy, mostly older E-bike riders out for shorter trips,  but also a good number of touring cyclists out for longer journeys. 

There are also many who escape from the big cities over the weekend either to camp or cycle. 

A lucky pig in Wismar

Approaching Wismar from the west we first came across some popular swimming spots with sandy beaches and stands selling food and drink, then past a few imposing old villas. The dominating feature though is the shipbuilding wharf - complete with a massive cruise ship in for some work. We were quickly into the old town - one of the original Hamsa towns.  It was clearly wealth and has many lovely town houses and huge churches. One now smaller after booming damage from the war compounded by the communist disregard for old religious buildings who removed what was left and turned it into a car park. It has now had the old outlines re-built in brick and you get an impression of the scale of the building. Such a shame the damage war does. 

We also went up the tower of another church which gave amazing views over the town. We then walked down to the old harbour where they have done a lot of revitalising of what must have been industrial area. It’s now busy with shops and a few interesting boats along the quay. 

We rode home after a bite to eat. This time with a tail wind, making it all the nicer. We rode our 500’th km of the trip and celebrated with a jelly bear! 

500km

We met a couple of French ladies - both from the south west near where we used to live, one doing a huge tour that started in Poland and will take in Sweden and more of the Baltic states - she had friends joining from time to time. The boys overtook these two (who were not going slowly) I lingered for a chat before we parted ways. The boys are now strong cyclists - Yannick has the most power and can just ride away from us on the hills. So much for wondering if they were going to cope with the loaded bikes! 

Back at the B&B we unloaded our gear before heading to the beach for a swim and supper of pasta salad. We then all collapsed into real beds - with  no one elbowing you in the face in the night! 

Sunshine and first hills

 It’s the weekend and local bike packers are out in force. We met many who were just ‘out for the weekend’ - but also more here that are doing longer journeys. Getting underway took a while as the tents were soaked with dew. We rolled back down to Travemunde and got the ferry over the river to start our ride East. A really nice mix of beach front and wheat or rape fields. All idyllic in the days sunshine. We gobbled up miles despite the reasonably late start. 

It’s clear the landscape is changing a bit, the coast is no longer just flat and the hills inland are more rolling. There are also stretches of beech forest which are lovely to ride through and low cliffs giving a vantage point to look over the sea. 

Some of the beach resorts are busy and a bit rowdy but on bikes we can choose to linger or not.

The forecast for the start of next week is not good and we don’t want to end the trip on a wet note - it’s been such fun so far, but two wet days in a row don’t seem like much fun so we spent a lot of the day trying to find a place to stay. 

The sea at our campsite was very shallow so it was more wading than swimming. The boys were not impressed by the jellyfish. but the sun was out and the evening pleasant. 

Tall ships and Budenbrucks

 We started the day with more heavy rain. Uff - this is getting a bit much. Luckily there was a dry place we could sit for breakfast. Next to us sat a French couple with two young kids - they are in the last few days of a tour that started in April! 

After breakfast we took the bus into Travemunde to look at Passat - one of the ‘Flying P liners’ a four masted Barque. Very interesting to go on board. It’s obviously a functional object - made for trade, but it is also beautiful. The sheer line, curves and shapes could, I am certain have been almost as effective as a set of straight lines that would be hydrodynamically almost as efficient but easier to build.  But no - the design left the board as an object of beauty - and the world is a better place for it. 

Once off the ship the day was getting warm again - we took the ferry back over the water to the west side and took a train into Lübeck. Home of Thomas Mann and marzipan! It’s also a beautiful Hansa town and was clearly very wealthy for a long time. 

The boys got the bus back early to play in the pool while S and I enjoyed tea and cake at the Niederegger marzipan cafe. Well worth it! 

Back at the campsite it was full of cycle tourist and more arrived as we got ready for supper. We shared the only bench and table with a young German couple and chatted away till late. Now bed time - but parties continue on all sides. Tomorrow we ride on- with a promise of good weather again.